Monday 14/3 at anchor in Pilot Bay.
Cool morning; overcast.
Woke at 4.30 am; underway at 5.00am. Rock & rolled a little last night at anchor but not nearly as bad at the same anchorage on the way in. Wind from the SE/SW during the morning with 3-5 metre swell. Some 100 nm to travel.
Had to tack all the way - sometimes it seemed we were going backwards with sideways here, sideways there, crisscrossing our rhumb line. We made slow progress and used the motor to add to our efforts. We were sailing to the wind trying to keep the sails in the 30o power zone. My stomach felt a little precious maybe because of the days we’ve had stationary in Strahan or just due to the irregular action of the waves and swell.
Shifts Barry & Chris 8.30-10.30pm; Tony & Ian 10.30pm-12.30 am etc.
We arrived at 6am on Tuesday morning anchored just inside Port Davey in Bond Bay. All tired and cold. Had very little to eat but well.The sleeping bags were great to climb into, asleep before our heads touched the pillow.
Tuesday 15/3 at anchor in Port Davey.
Overcast day; 16C
Woke at about 10.30 am quite refreshed but low on energy. Inflated the Zodiac put the outboard on with the view that we would explore the Davey River. We travelled under yacht power to the Davey River where there is a rock & sandbar near the entrance. Because it was cold &wet with rain showers we decided to stay on board and cook a roast dinner.
Cooking on board isn’t really a chore when you are anchored or the seas are calm, however there is always the "brains trust " sitting around who will give you advice on what you are doing wrong! But no it’s a pleasure when no matter what the food tastes like, they are always grateful for any burnt offering.
The three burner gastop and oven swings on a gimble as the waves necessitate the boat to heel one way or the other. The pots on the top can be further stabilised by arms that fit around the hot pot. Our roast for today was lamb, potatoes, pumpkin, carrots and onion. We were in bed by 8.30 and slept well.
Wednesday 16/3 at anchor mouth of Davey River.
Overcast morning with sunny spells developing 19C
We took onions, potatoes, saddle straps of lamb. I cooked with two beers and some red wine. Great lunch with lots of chat and “how are you mate” going backwards and forwards amongst the throng. Discussion was had by many on what’s the latest forecast for tomorrow because it looks like if we don't go tomorrow we could be here for a few more days.
The journey we want to undertake is to Recherche Bay pronounced "research" about 65nm; the forecast is for 5-6 metre swells with winds W/SW at 20-25 knots.
The opinions were mixed about 50/50 whether to go or stay. Our skipper decided we were going. Tomorrow was going to be a challenge but we were up for it!
Scrambled eggs & bacon for tea in bed by 9pm.
Sunday 6/3 Anchored in Coulomb bay off Three Hummock Island. N.W. Tassie
16C Overcast & Windy.
Departed at 8am bound for Macquarie Harbour (approximately 121nm). Both the Gordon & Franklin Rivers run into the harbour. Expect the journey to take 30 hours. ETA mid day Monday. Winds from the NE at 30 plus knots swell 3 to 5 metres. We are headed south down the west coast. Winds favourable doing 7 knots or thereabouts. There are yachts in front and at rear of us - it’s good to see them at sea.
The coastline has some very imposing cliffs with a huge wind farm just south of Grim Point. We didn’t see any sign of settlement at all and we knew we would be out of telephone coverage for the next 30 hours. The west coast really is a wilderness area.
No. 3 headsail up with one reef in the main in the first 10 hours we have done 60 nautical miles and have revised our arrival time to be early in the morning; average 6 knots.
Wind suddenly dropped and coming from the south. We are motor sailing for about 40 minutes then the wind is back to the north east. In the interim we had taken out the reef in the mainsail. The winds came back to 25 - 30 knots and we achieved 12 knots speed over ground SOG.
Seas are too turbulent to cook so Mars bars, muesli bars, apples and water for dinner. All is well.
Arrived off Cape Sorell "Hells Gates" the entrance to Macquarie Harbour at 1.30am. The entrance is too tricky to navigate at night so we anchored in Pilot Bay adjacent to the entrance for an early way forward in the morning. 17.5 hours for 121 nm – a very good exhilarating sail.
Monday 7/3 At anchor Pilot Bay off "Hells Gates"
Rough Rolly night, at times I was flat out staying in my bunk even with the lee cloth down. We all agreed it was the worst night’s sleep so far.
Departed at dawn through the entrance to Macquarie Harbour and on to Strahan. The entrance in daylight was good but continually looking at the GPS for depths and guidance. It helped when we could follow other yachts that had the same idea as us. All the yachts we saw where taking part in the circumnavigation. Wind from wrong direction so we motored to Strahan about 2 hours.
Macquarie Harbour is about 6 times the size of Sydney Harbour. Inside this natural harbour the seas were calm and now that we have done the entrance through "Hells Gates" we feel confident that we would be able to do it at night if necessary.
Calm seas, red sky dawn with huge mountains as a backdrop; what a place. We were exploring something for the first time with all the elements being on their best behaviour. The water in the harbour looks brown or brackish; they say it is tannin from all the native grasses with salt water underneath and the freshwater on the top. Although it looks brown they say it is OK to drink.
The township of Strahan looks well suited for the setting with a mixture of old colonial buildings and more modern buildings with designs of early settlement. Helicopters, seaplanes and large river cats cater for the tourist dollar.
Train rides by steam engine through the wilderness from Strahan to Queenstown and river cat rides up the Gordon river are the most patronised attractions. Both run twice a day and we were amazed to see them always overflowing with tourists.
We anchored in the Harbour about 100 metres from town. Inflated the Zodiac for the first time and attached our new 4hp outboard; all good started and handled like a charm.
Chores to do : Stowed the headsail, refuelled the diesel tanks [used Zodiac to ferry fuel] and topped up the water tanks. Showered ashore and washed clothes. All well. We ate dinner at the pub; they were busy as most of the other yachties were there too. Caught up with Andrew, Vickie & Bruce off Trezor. In bed by 9pm; slept well.
Tuesday 8/3 at anchor in Strahan
Working to the indicative schedule we will be in Strahan for the next 4 days. Kevin departs on Thursday via a coach link from Strahan to Hobart then fly to Melbourne. Tony will do return journey on Sunday; both of them live in Melbourne and will be attending Tony's youngest son’s 21st birthday party on the Friday night.
We continued to ferry fresh water via the Zodiac to our tanks. Showers and sun throughout the day; a relaxing one. Ate on board tonight; in bed by 9.00pm
Wednesday 9/3 rafted up adjacent to Strahan Pub
(next to an original "wooden work yacht" friend of Ian the skipper).
We have booked a trip on the Wilderness railway for today. Strahan to Queenstown via the old copper mine railway route. Chris cancelled at the last minute this morning as he is not well. Gastro, dehydration & cough are the main symptoms.
The train consists of 4 carriages and a steam engine that travels along a very narrow rail track into the wilderness. The steep grades are handled via a railway cog system that is unique to only a few other systems in the world. We departed Strahan about 10am after taking the Zodiac across to the other side of the harbour and walking the last 15 minutes to the railway station.
The little steam engine " I think I can, I think I can " handled the steep inclines well.
The train just cleared the cuttings that were all constructed by manual labour, convict or otherwise. Lunch was provided with beer available, we all enjoyed the trip it is worth doing again. Returned from Queenstown by coach along a very windy road.
Chris stayed in a motel this evening. The three of us ate at Risby Cove.
Thursday 10/3 at Strahan
Kevin left this morning on the bus at about 8.00am. Chris went to the local medical centre with Ian - caught a cab as Chris has little energy. Luckily there was a doctor visiting the clinic; he put Chris onto a drip and said he needed to stay there for some time. Chris returned in the early afternoon and said his prescription was emailed to Queenstown and the tablets would arrive on the school bus that afternoon.There is normally no doctor or pharmacy in town; the nurse is generally the best you can do. Chris stayed in a motel. Ian & I did a few jobs, relaxed, read a book and went to the pub for tea. Slept well.
Friday 11/3 at Strahan
I have booked a trip on the Gordon river cruise boat the Lady Franklin. If Chris had been well we would have taken the good ship "Schnell" but thought it best to leave her in Strahan. Chris is recovering slowly and Ian had done the trip before, so I am on my own. Departed at 8.30am; the cat went straight down the harbour and out of Hells Gates travelling at about 25 knots. There is no doubt it’s like being in a truck at sea - power, size & schedule keeping the cat to her day’s toil; not waiting for wind or tide, just do it now!
The trip in & out of Hells Gates was definitely for the tourist because no sooner were we out than we were back in again heading for the Gordon River. On the way we stopped and saw several fish farms. Macquarie Harbour is the first place in Australia where Ocean Trout were farmed. They also farm salmon. The ponds or farms each contain several thousand fish that are distributed throughout Australia or Asia.
Our speed was reduced once we were in the Gordon and you could see the tannin in the water from the native button grass. The riverside environment is pristine and has remained unchanged for thousands of years. We stopped at several jetties and walked over timber boardwalks to view Huon Pine trees that have lived more than 3000 years. Lunch was a smorgasbord and good value for money.
Our last stop on the tour was to visit Sarah Island, the first penal colony in Tasmania. Established in 1822, this was all prior to the establishment of Port Arthur . The guides indicated that conditions on the island were harsh and that the prisoners had named the entrance to Macquarie Harbour "Hells Gates" because of the treatment they received. Great day - wouldn't have missed it for quids. On return Ian & I ate at Risby Gove. Chris at the motel.
Saturday 12/3 at Strahan
I walked to the "Peoples Park" around the Harbour to return to visit the waterfall named Hogarth Falls. It was about 1 hour’s walk from the entrance through rainforest with the stream meandering alongside the path. Stream was again tannin/ brown coloured. Relaxing day; we are all ready for Tony's arrival tomorrow so that we can get on the move. Chris stayed in the motel for the night and is really improving in his health. He is eating more , drinking lots of water and definitely has more energy. Ian & I ate at the local fish restaurant.
Sunday 13/3 Strahan – Pilot Bay
17C overcast
Tony arrives today . We restocked last minute things (eg top up of water & food). Tony arrived at 3.45pm and we sailed out at 4.30pm. We are heading for Pilot Bay so we can leave early tomorrow morning for Port Davey/Bathurst Harbour about 100nm. It was great to see Tony and he seems quite happy with the sailing in the harbour and movement of the yacht.
Spag Bog for tea. Early to bed 9pm (Tony said he never goes to bed this early but let’s give it a few days!).
Monday 28/2 Last day of February 2011. Weather 17C windy cloudy showers
Because we arrived later than many of the other boats we decided to stay tied up in the pen at the Tamar Yacht Club Marina. Many things to do:!!! Freshwater tank fill & check for leaks. Look at leak from the head inlet pipe. Sponge out the bilge area. Scrub the floor boards. Clean oven & gas top. Scrub down the aft of the transom for exhaust carbon from the diesel engine. Go into town to purchase an extra two 20 litre drums & fill with diesel. Unscrew the sea water inlet reservoir for the engine & refill. Change the battery in the ships clock. Do the washing at a local launderette for all crew.
All done R&R, sleep, read a book, write this entry. Going to the local cafe for tea at 7pm. In bed at 9pm.
Tuesday 1/3 Departed Beauty Point about 7am.
16C cloudy showers windy
Weather forecast not the best but we needed to be on the move because the majority of the fleet had already gone. The draft schedule indicated that we should be in the vicinity of Devonport by the end of today.
We were now headed anticlockwise from the mouth of the Tamar River 'Launceston' along the coast towards the Three Hummock Islands in the Hunter group the North West of Tasmania.
The wind & the tide where both against us travelling towards the exit of the Tamar. We had already hoisted the main and the no. 1 headsail. The weather forecast as we left was now upgraded to "Gale Force" for all coastal Tasmanian waters. We reefed in the main and changed the no. 1 to the no. 3 headsail. Winds were increasing to 30 plus knots with 4 metre swells. Bass Strait was about to live up to its reputation - winds were now 35 to 40 knots and 5 metre swell.
We pulled in the self-furling headsail but after a short while it unfurled itself and as we tried to refurl it again, the furling sheet came undone and laid on the deck. Flapping wildly we focused on how we could take down the headsail the safest way with the wild wind increasing in strength. It was decided to take the wind out of the headsail by turning the yacht so the main covered the headsail exposure to the wind. Kevin & I went forward on a pitching deck, undid the two sheets, pulled down the sail and dragged it down the main companionway. We made sure during this manoeuvrer that we were attached by our safety line at all times.
We thought we would have a breather for a while but suddenly the main reef ripped out. The reef had been put through an experimental pulley, the experiment didn't work. With the main flapping badly we slowly got it under control and put in a second reef.
Things settled down but still huge seas, swell & wind. Schnell was performing beautifully just taking all of this in her stride. There is nothing like some rough weather to start giving you greater confidence about the vessel you are on.
We were now tacking constantly and revised our plan to sail to Devonport. We decided to get off the ocean and head for a small coastal town called Port Sorrell. Our maps and the GPS indicated a sandbar with a narrow opening into the Rubicon River that led to Port Sorrell.
Arrived at 2.30 pm Low tide at 1.30pm tied up at a buoy in the river after advice from a local yachtie who saw us enter over the sandbar and wondered down to check us out like most yachties do.
Comfortable at last. Sausages & gravy, Deb potato & peas. All OK. In bed by 9pm.
Wednesday 2/3 in Rubicon River Port Sorrell
16C Windy showers sun
Cleaned out the bilge - 6 huge buckets of water. We struck gold in the fact that there was a public pontoon adjacent to our buoy and only three minutes walk from there was a caravan park. We could use the washing machine, showers & toilets. A further walk about 25 minutes put us in the middle of downtown Port Sorrell.
The town was a mixture of old & new buildings. It looks like the expansion part of town is due to the influx of retirees and a new aged care facility. We were able to purchase some silicon at the local boat suppliers to try and fix a leak in the skipper's quarters.
We moved from the buoy and through the pick out for the night. It was still windy in the river so at sea it would have been no fun. Had a beautiful roast dinner for tea. Beef, roast potatoes, pumpkin, onion, carrots and a bottle of red wine. We bobbed & bucked during the night but slept well.
Thursday 3/3 in Rubicon River Port Sorrell
17C Wind easing
Discovered the no. 3 headsail had a rip from the other day. It needed to be fixed for the rest of the journey. Looking at the cruise info, the closest sailmaker was in Wynyard. We got a lift from the caravan park manager into Devonport about 20km away & hired a car to go up to Wynyard, the journey took about 4.5 hours. While waiting for the sail to be fixed we visited "Trezor" who was rafted up to other vessels in the river in Wynyard. Trezor was part of fleet doing the cruise around Tassie & we had met them at the Tamar Yacht Club at Beauty Point earlier. On board Trezor is Andrew, Vickie & Bruce. Really nice people. They confirmed the winds were easing Friday pm.
We all hope to leave on Friday. The sail was fixed and we returned to the good ship Schnell at Port Sorrell. During the day Kevin had assembled an electric bilge pump that will speed up our disposal of unwanted seawater from the bilge.
Sausages, mash, onion & cauliflower for dinner.
Friday 4/3 Rubicon River
17C Sun out wind about 15-20 knots
9am weather forecast reporting reasonable to good conditions at sea. Left the buoy at 11am .Manoeuvred the sand bar and departed the river at 11.45am. Good to be on the move, wind forecast 20-25 knots, 2-3 metre swell, winds W/SW. We are bound for the Three Hummock Island/Hunter group the far north west spot in Tasmania. The GPS indicates 81 nautilcal miles.
Pretty rough to start but Schnell sailed well, saw a few dolphins & another yacht well astern of us.
Shifts Chris & myself 8-11pm; Kev & Ian 11-2am.
Engaged auto steering device after first 20nm Wind FREEZING I had nearly all my clothes on: 2 sets of thermals top & bottom, T shirt, another shirt, fleecy jumper, raincoat & then the oilskins top & bottom. Gloves, beany, life jacket, safety harness & lifeline. Head torch over the beanie, waterproof socks & new waterproof boots. I kept warmish despite the night winds. I estimated the temperature to be 8C with wind chill minus another 2C; let's say it felt like about 5 or 6C.
Ate snacks on the way; NO hot drinks as it was too rough. Salada biscuits & topping, Mars Bars with an apple & bottled water. Handed over at 11pm. All on deck for our arrival at 3am Saturday morning.
Great sail 15 hours average just on 5 knots.
Anchored off shore in lee of islands. There were 14 other yachts in the bay.
Saturday 5/3 Anchored at Three Hummock island.
Woke at 8am we rock-n-rolled a little with the swell but nothing compared to the ocean. We are all well. Jobs to do today. Electric bilge pump is a winner - well done Kev.
Breakfast of bacon, eggs, tomato & toast. We didn't go ashore. Had to fix auto steering device, it had fallen apart at the tiller. Fixed it temporarily; it will probably be OK down wind but suspicious otherwise.
Rested a bit throughout the day. Great dinner - Spag Bog. In bed at 8.30pm. Slept well.
